Taste of Taiwan

JR and I took a few days in Nanjing to defrost from the Harbin cold. After I said a final goodbye to 南大 and my host family, we took a train to Xiamen, the city on the mainland closest to Taipei.


I hear great things about Xiamen and Gulangyu. If you go to China, visit those cities for me please. It's a shame we didn't have time to check them out. Next time. We were both sick so we needed the extra rest days in Nanjing.

I wanted to spend at least a month in Taiwan, but I also wanted to be sure to be with family in Hong Kong on Chinese New Year's Eve. Family trumps travel so we set out for a 8 day trip. I booked a return ticket from Taiwan to Hong Kong set for New Year's Eve.

JR and I did little to no research prior to our trip. We aren't big on planning, and I figured we could wing it because Taiwan is not very large. I picked four cities based on both recommendations from friends and locations of national parks, booked a hostel for the first night, and that's about it.

You can take a ferry or plane from Xiamen to Taiwan. Our friend found us cheap flights on taobao so we opted to fly. As soon as we got to Taipei, we took a southbound train to Kaohsiung.



Kaohsiung
Day 1
Our Kaohsiung hostel was conveniently located a five minute walk from a night market. I have been to quite a few night markets around Asia and Taiwan-hands down-is home to the best.


Many of my Taiwanese friends rave about food in Taiwan. When I asked then what to eat, James gave me the best answer. "You'll want to try everything."

I was a pescatarian while traveling through Southeast Asia but I decided to take a break from it. James was right. Everything looked delicious and I wanted to experience the culture through the local cuisine. (Translation: I love food and wanted to eat everything in sight.)
Day 2
The next day we took advantage of the city bike rental stands scattered throughout Kaohsiung. You can rent a bike from one stand and return it to a different stand. The best part is that it is free if you return the bike within one hour. We were cheap and kept returning and re-renting our bikes throughout the day. (I would have felt guilty but the hostel owner also suggested it.) We did it until we hit the limit for times to rent and return bikes in a day. Whoops.

We biked through most of the city. At one point, JR returned his bike and ran alongside me while I biked. People thought JR was nuts. What's new.

We went to The Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts because I saw advertisements for the Dali exhibit. When I think of Dali, I just picture the melty droopy clocks. I did not realize he also made interesting furniture.

I used to feel guilty going to temporary exhibits in museums. If I am in this foreign country, shouldn't I see things from that country?  Why am I spending my time looking at stuff from other countries?

Now, I love it. One of my favorite exhibits was a Russian art exhibition in a museum in Hong Kong. I have been wanting to go to Russia and seeing Russian art let me have a short imaginary trip to that country.

Tainan
Day 3
The next day, we explored Tainan on foot. We walked around the city for many hours and stopped by some museums.

We stumbled onto an open air market. There were some performers and many food vendors. Jeez, after writing this blog, I realize all we did in Taiwan is eat.

Every night the hostel tells the guests to meet at 7pm to go to the night market together. The only way to go is by cab so the hostel tries to arrange a taxi pool. We waited at the hostel but nobody wanted to go with us. Sad. We are cheap and didn't want to pay the expensive cab fare. We opted to rent bikes from our hostel to get to the night market. I love biking and I love Taiwan's night markets. Win win.

Day 4
In a brochure I grabbed at the airport, I read about a scenic area near Tainan. It sounded interesting enough and since our bike rental was for 24 hours we decided to bike there. It was only 15km away. The park wasn't that interesting and there were little bugs eating me alive.

While looking for a place to stop for lunch, we stumbled into an open air market.
I got JR to try 豆花 for the first time. I love introducing people to new food.



We tried corn dogs because I was craving them. Mistake. Nobody can do it like the States. I know hot dogs are scary fake meat things but these things were faker than hot dogs. How is that even possible? I don't
even want to know what we ate.

After the market, we found our way to the pier. We skipped the attractions and just sat talking about the future and whatnot while watching the sunset over the water. I could have sat there for hours.

I now know I have to live in a city with water. I was spoiled by spending every morning and many afternoons on the beautiful Lady Bird Lake.

Alas, we had to hurry home to return our bikes. There is nothing like the feeling of your sweaty legs sticking to themselves each time you pump your legs while biking.

Hualien
Day 5
We took a train to Hualien and we inadvertently sang oldies the entire way. That was one of my favorite parts of the trip.  

When we arrived at the station in the evening, it was pouring. I regret not buying a rain cover for my backpack. (Kathryn, if you are reading this -- guess which two words I am thinking of. Christian, help her out.) I remember staring at rain covers in REI before I left thinking I wouldn't need it. If you go backpacking, get it. Then you won't have to Macgyver a backpack cover out of plastic bags. I wish I had it in Southeast Asia not just because of rain but because of dust. My backpack got super beat up and dirty after taking many sketchy vans.

Anyway, we dumped our bags in the hostel and I asked the chica on staff at the hostel for suggestions of what to do. I didn't know anything about the city. I just wanted to go to Hualien for the national park.

She pulled out a map and circled 15 plus restaurants and food stands for us to try. How did she know JR and I love to eat? We grabbed umbrellas and had a three hour walking progressive dinner in the rain. Worth it. We ate buns that JR claims are better than 生煎包. We ended going to that bun place again before our train the next day.

There was a street of mochi, pineapple cake, and sweets stores. They all had samples. I love samples. Who doesn't? Speaking of which, Taiwan has Costco! Major points.

Day 6
Taroko National Park

We spent the day exploring Taroko National Park. We love being outside and hiking. Nag JR to upload his photos from his expensive fancy camera. I didn't bother to take many photos and left that responsibility for him.

We stopped by the pebble beach just before it started to rain again. JR used the stones to teach me how to throw a discus and shotput.

Taipei
Day 7
I originally wanted to go to Yangmingshan. However with a forecast of rain, 25 mph wind,  and low temperatures, we decided to skip it. Next time.

Instead we went on a walking tour. We passed through the flower market and Flora Expo Park before making our way to the Taipei Fine Arts Museum. JR is super sweet and let me drag him to all the museums I wanted to.visit. We saw an awesome exhibit of a famous Taiwanese artist who does oil paintings of scenes around Taiwan. My favorite paintings were the ones of Hualien. It was neat to see paintings of the park we just visited.


After the museum we went to the Shilin Night Market.

Day 8
We went to The National Gallery. Their collection is huge. My mom told me to see the jade cabbage. There were swarms of people around it so I guess it's important.

We had another walking progressive dinner at a different night market. By this time, we were night market pros. We split many dishes so we could try more. That was our last night so we "had to" get the Taiwanese foods we had yet to try.

Our ridiculously gluttonous dinner consisted of:
-蛋餅
-red bean and black sesame mochi balls covered in ground peanuts
-spicy Korean rice cake and noodles
-Korean seafood pancake
-Japanese peanut mochi
-fresh watermelon juice
-red bean mochi
-rice flour noodles with pig intestines
-杏仁豆腐
-蚵仔煎
-切仔面
-蜜香柚子茶
-assorted samples

In our culture class in Nanjing, we wrote six word summaries at the end of the semester. I have been writing one for each city I visit.

JR's Taiwan 6 word summary:
Find food. Street food. Free food.
I couldn't have come up with a better one if I tried.

Day 9
Chinese New Year's Eve

My dad likes pineapple cakes and I wanted to bring him the best. Several people recommended Chiate When we were getting close to the bakery, I saw the long line before I saw the store. I filed in line with Taiwanese people getting last minute gifts.


After buying a huge box of fresh pineapple cakes, we walked to Taipei 101. The great thing about going to visit ridiculously tall buildings is that you don't need directions. Just look up and walk towards it.

It was super foggy so this is what it looked like when we first got to the observation deck.

Thankfully, it cleared up later on.

I went to the airport early to see JR off. I don't mind sitting, waiting,(wishing) in airports. The Taoyuan airport has a "reading corner" where you can borrow a book to read before your flight. I found one of my childhood favorites-Holes.

The flight to Hong Kong is super quick. I wish I took advantage of that before. I have been to Hong Kong many times, but this was my first time to Taiwan.

My dad arrived in Hong Kong the day before me because he also flew in for the new year. It was great to have him pick me up at the airport even though he didn't recognize me. I don't know if it is his failing eyesight or the fact I chopped off my hair again or what. We talked the entire bus ride to my grandma's house. We also discussed his upcoming travel plans to Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Philippines, and India... Foreshadowing? Until next time!

Three things I am grateful for:
1. Advice from Taiwanese friends about where to go and what to eat
2. Convenience of train travel in Taiwan
3. Helpful hostel staff members

Is that the moon?

"My hometown is a 28 hour train ride from Nanjing."

My friend 宇琦 mentioned this my first week in China. (宇琦 was 康凯's roommate during our study abroad program in Nanjing, China. Each student from the States was placed with a student from China.) How does anyone spend that much time on a train without going stir crazy?  Little did I know that four months later I would clock a 56 hour travel time adventure from Cambodia to Laos (and love every second. Kathryn, admit it. It was fun.) Now I love long train rides because I just sleep or journal the entire time.  One of my favorite parts of our Southeast Asia trip was talking with Kathryn on the buses. It is true that it didn't matter where you are as long as you are in good company.

Many months ago, 宇琦 mentioned he wanted to show us  his hometown and take us to the Harbin Ice Festival. I don't particularly like the cold or fare well in it so I originally wasn't planning on going. I got hit by a case of fomo so I agreed to tag along. In total there were seven of us (brave enough/foolish enough) going to face the cold.

After taking two days in Nanjing to recover from our Southeast Asia adventure, 康凯 and I hopped on a sleeper train to Shenyang.

As my friend Bri says, "Shenyang is a hardship post for a reason."

I have never been in such a polluted city. Yes, it was worse than Beijing. One day, we took a two and a half hour bus ride from Shenyang to go skiing. When I was with my friend J.R. on the slopes, I pointed to the sky.

"J.R., you can see the moon!"
"Kat, that's the sun. Do you remember seeing a full moon last night?"

Oops.


The smog is unreal. He had to convince me that the gray circular object in the sky was the sun. Soon after it quickly disappeared behind thick blankets of smog.

I had a discussion with 宇琦 about the pollution.
Me: "沈阳的污染很差!"
宇琦: "不是, 我们的空气很差, 我们的污染很利害."

Me: Shenyang's pollution is terrible.
宇琦: Incorrect. Shenyang's air quality is terrible. Our pollution is intense!
(Sorry, that last part is hard to translate. Please tell me if you can offer a better translation.)

Despite the pollution, I was glad to be there. My friend 宇琦 brought along his friend and they were fantastic hosts. I love having locals take me around their city. I think it is one of the best ways to travel.

Shenyang is close to the North Korean border. 宇琦 knows I've been itching to go.
"可欣, you could walk over but the guards will probably be really confused about why someone is sneaking in. When people come to Shenyang when they sneak out of North Korea."

After three days in Shenyang, we took a short train ride to Harbin. Many people warned me about the cold. It is just a sneeze away from Russia. The cold ain't so bad if you are wearing a SARS face mask, two parkas, two pairs of socks, three hats, and three pairs of pants. I felt like a fluffy marshmallow. Have you and a friend ever faced each other while holding stability balls and run into each other at full speed? Yeah, we played that game on the streets without the balls. I didn't mind the cold probably because we were only there for two days.

The first day, we walked down the main shopping street. I got giddy with excitement because I knew that the ice sculptures that lined the street was just a teaser of what we were about to see at the ice festival.


So, at many attractions and museums around the world flashing a student id will get you a nice discount. At the festival, the difference in cost between a student ticket and general admission was 180 RMB (29 USD). The entrance fee is absurdly expensive (but absolutely worth it).
We showed the staff our student ids and all of the Chinese students from our group got in but all of the Americans were denied entry.Our student ids didn't have expiration dates so they didn't believe we were still students.

We stood there futily arguing with them. Nobody wanted to pay for the regular ticket. Then, someone (Maggie?) had the idea to use smartphones to get online to prove our enrollment. They let me in after I showed them my grades from senior year. Two of my friends (JR and Maggie) were still stuck on the other side of the turnstile. I graduated from college and got in. Those two were legitimately still students.

J.R. tried everything and could not get in. I found a LinkedIn account of someone by the same name that was an alumnus of the same university. Sure, the guy now was a COO of a bank now but I didn't show the guards that part of the page. They somehow bought it. I like to think I'm sneaky and convincing and not that the staff just have in after hearing us nag and argue for over an hour.

one of the many slides

How do you describe this place? It was a winter wonderland. Unreal. And so China. There was an Angry Birds park. China loves them some Angry Birds. There were slides, castles, sculptures, and a smurf park.

Drinking Harbins in Harbin under a Harbin

Angry Birds Park

There were food vendors scattered thought the park. There is a watery tasting Chinese beer made in Harbin called Harbin. I asked one of the shop keepers if I could take a Harbin to go. Why nobody else in the park didn't do it is beyond me. (Hope that wasn't illegal.) I asked for a cold beer but they only had "room temp." Good thing it's below freezing.

Our eyelashes kept freezing together.

I tried to take pictures and video but my phone kept shutting off. My camera lens froze. Electronics (and humans) do not function properly when it's that cold.


The next day we went to a robot restaurant for lunch. Robots cook some of the dishes and bring the food to your table. We thought it would be more robot less human automated than it was but it was still neat.   Robots + food. What more can you ask for?

Soon after lunch JR and I headed to the train station. Poor thing was sick and we had a 30 something hour train ride home to Nanjing. Delays ended up adding four hours to our train ride. At the beginning of our ride I was feeling a bit sick too. (Sharing food is bad! But not really. I do it all the time. Sharing is caring.) During our 34 hour ride, I slept 30 hours only waking up from my fever.

Three things I'm grateful for:
1. Having local hosts-宇琦and his friend were so wonderful. They helped arrange hostels and train tickets. 宇琦's friend also bought my plane ticket to Taiwan and Hong Kong. When you use Chinese sites, you have to pay with a Chinese credit card. Good thing or I else would be on taobao all the time.

2. Before I left my Chinese tutor was worried I didn't have enough clothes. She insisted I borrow a jacket. I wore her parka inside of mine. She also bought me a packet of heat packs. They are like hand warners but you stick a patch to your shirt.
3. Skiing for cheap-When Lanier, Kris, Sam and I went indoor skiing in Seoul they had a 50% off foreigner discount. In Shenyang we happened to go on ladies day. Each man can bring a lady to ski for free.

I am so proud this post is up less than two months after my last post. My next post should be up this week. I'm catching up!

I hope y'all have a fantastic week!